12/ Vogue Covers 1920-2009

“Art is tremendously adaptable. It is much at ease in Vogue as on the walls of a museum or gallery.” (Steichen p. 185)

The first issue ever published of Vogue was by Arthur Baldwin Turnure in 1892, and at the time, was a weekly publication. Following Turnure’s death in 1909, Conde Nast took over and began publishing Vogue as a monthly magazine. Nast aimed to target the upper class woman specifically as opposed to a mass audience. He also made Vogue more expensive than competitive magazines, again targeting a classier audience and perhaps adding value to the superiority of Vogue.

The cover of a magazine is perhaps the most important element of that publication. It is the viewer’s first impression of the magazine, and it is a representation of not only the fashionable trends that are in that issue but also the historical, social, and cultural aspects of the time of publication. As distinct from a single photograph, a cover is a collective effort between a photographer, model, graphic designer, editor and publisher. Vogue covers can be seen to both reflect and challenge commercial norms in fashion publications.

Although each cover that is published is distinct in terms of a final product, each decade since the 1920s seems to tie together particular elements that make it distinct from other decades. The following research touches on the elements that have evolved over time since the 1920s. It shows how aesthetics, styling, fashion, lighting, subjects, and overall attitudes are continually changing and are reflected in Vogue covers alone.

1920s-1930s

The 1920s Vogue covers were typically illustrations with little or no text and little detail of fashion. Vogue commissioned artists to compose covers that were typically illustrations of females with simplified shapes and objects and pastel colours. Many of the illustrations can be seen to mimic Art Deco and certainly glamourise femininity. At this time it was only possible to produce about 10 photographs per month, and it was in the early 1930s when photographs began being published on Vogue covers. Most of these photographs were shot in the Vogue studio with tungsten lighting, basic equipment and developed using chemicals imported from the United States. In these decades advertising was expanding and encouraged people to spend money, and the covers featured on Vogue during this decade aimed to define an attitude and convey a feministic style rather than solely advertise a particular product.

1940s-1950s

In this era Vogue covers were now predominantly photographs. At this point in time photographers relied solely on lighting, the model and styling to convey a look of elegance. Basic colours were available and photoshop did not exist so models were as ‘real’ as they were, enhanced with makeup, styling, posing and lighting only. The 1950s reflected ‘ready-to-wear’ consumerism. At this stage, and for most of the 20^th century modeling agencies were scarce and modeling as a profession was not a widespread accepted career. Models were ‘discovered’ at nightclubs and restaurants and they generally did not boast about modeling for Vogue as this was not desirable.

1960s-1970s

The covers published during this period glamourised women and were a reflection of the liberation of women in society. The cigarette is introduced as a symbol of defiance and women are typically depicted as strong and content with their sexuality.

1980s-1990s

During this period publishing celebrities on covers of Vogue became an increasingly popular trend. Women such as Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell were slowly being recognised as being ‘glamour goddesses’, and modeling as a profession was slowly becoming recognised.

1900s to Today

The introduction of digital cameras in the early 1900s has resulted in dramatic changes in the magazine industry. Digital technology and the popularisation of flash photography has allowed for more specialized imagery and a more ‘polished’ look, to say the least. Digitization has sped up the process of photography and has brought about more colour, experimentation and variety in the printed image. Ethics have become increasingly important as a result of the excessive amount of editing to the point of completely distorting a model's facial and bodily features. As a result our perception of beauty is changing and becoming distorted and society in general is becoming more skeptical to ‘truth’ in the printed image. Experimentation in lighting and styling is becoming more dramatic and is reflective of our highly demanding society. And with technology moving at such a rapid pace photography is expanding dramatically. The pressure that is placed on photographers to exceed expectations and stand out is heightening and originality is becoming harder and harder to pinpoint.

Conclusion [The following views are subjective]

The covers of Vogue have been in the past and will continue to be a highly regarded publication. As technology moves forward at a rapid pace Vogue covers will continue to evolve and develop. Vogue both shapes and reflects society, and as much as Vogue publicises that it challenges expected norms, I think it also reinforces them. It is my presumption that Vogue will continue to sell fashion as not just a look, but also a glamourous lifestyle and will remain rich visual document of trends, fashion, gender coding, sexuality, lighting, photography and popular culture.

Source: Rachline, S 2009 Paris Vogue Covers 1920-2009, Thames & Hudson, New York.