Nath, Pam, Teri, Aimee & I went to the Urs Recher lighting workshop at Sun Studios today. We learnt an incredible amount about light in two days and we are pretty keen to reproduce some of these lighting setups in our own studio! I still need to clarify a few technical details with Julian but overall the two days were incredible. Will post some photos from the day once I get them from Nathan.
• P70 because it shines light within a 70 degree angle
• Softbox closer to subject = high contrast. Soft light but with hard drop off. Working with closer lights also gives the subject more 3D
• Set up lights one by one, master one (e.g. background) then move on to the next one. Let each light do one job, so that if something needs to be changed it is easier
• The further away the light, the harder the quality
• The hardness of light effects the saturation of colours. Diffused lights = lower saturation
• Make sure whites never exceed the 250 value (less than 250)
T01 = 1/8000th of a second. For sharper pictures use T01
T05 = 1/12000th of a second. T05 is technology/pack dependant
Graffit 3200 = 15
Scoro 3200 = 3.1
Therefore because the scoro has lowest output you can shoot with a close light but at f/2.8
• Use cable to get the fastest sync speed as opposed to RFS or IR. Cable has zero seconds delay. The IR has a delay in the power pack. The RFS has no delay on packs but a wake up time.
• Leaf shutters (e.g. hassleblads, mamiyas) have no sync speed, so you can get extremely sharp images which is especially useful for movement shots
• If reflector is too strong make it smaller or grey
• Although a lot of the light techniques we reproduced aren't ideal in terms of eliminating blemishes and using 'safe' light, it doesn't take long to photoshop a few blemishes when you produce something that is beautiful and more interestingly lit. Don't just play the 'safe' option. Take risks and touch it up. Also, don't 'give up' on light if its not perfect and you know you can touch something up in photoshop in 2 seconds, it's worth this compromise if your light is more interesting then standard 'safe' lighting. These are Recher's beliefs, and I agree with his philosophy.
Graffit 3200 = 15
Scoro 3200 = 3.1
Therefore because the scoro has lowest output you can shoot with a close light but at f/2.8
• Use cable to get the fastest sync speed as opposed to RFS or IR. Cable has zero seconds delay. The IR has a delay in the power pack. The RFS has no delay on packs but a wake up time.
• Leaf shutters (e.g. hassleblads, mamiyas) have no sync speed, so you can get extremely sharp images which is especially useful for movement shots
• If reflector is too strong make it smaller or grey
• Although a lot of the light techniques we reproduced aren't ideal in terms of eliminating blemishes and using 'safe' light, it doesn't take long to photoshop a few blemishes when you produce something that is beautiful and more interestingly lit. Don't just play the 'safe' option. Take risks and touch it up. Also, don't 'give up' on light if its not perfect and you know you can touch something up in photoshop in 2 seconds, it's worth this compromise if your light is more interesting then standard 'safe' lighting. These are Recher's beliefs, and I agree with his philosophy.
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